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Through a process of manual trial and error, accurate focus could be achieved through software-assisted focusing. This metric-assisted focusing is objective and did not rely on any visual interpretation to determine focus. Programs will download an image and then examine a star and give a readout of the star's diameter or brightness. This can be done by manual focusing and visual inspection of the Live-view image on the computer, or by autofocus if the camera is shooting through an autofocus lens.ДЇor previous generation cameras without Live-View, an image had to be downloaded to the computer and then visually examined for focus accuracy. The latest generation cameras allow focusing through the camera manufacturer's software.

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For old cameras, two cables were necessary for astrophotography: one USB cable to control camera functions and one serial to bulb port cable for long exposures.

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This major drawback necessitated the use of third-party software to control the camera and access bulb exposures longer than 30 seconds through the use of a serial to bulb port cable. With previous camera generations of Canon DSLRs and Nikon DSLR cameras, the camera manufacturer's software could control all camera functions except one critical one for astrophotography: the ability to shoot exposures longer than 30 seconds with the bulb setting. This software also allows viewing of the Live-view real-time image on the computer and focusing. This is accomplished through a single USB-2 Cable and includes control of the bulb setting for exposures longer than 30 seconds. With the current generation of Canon EOS DSLR cameras software by the camera manufacturer will control all functions of the camera. With camera control software, you can use your computer to control all of the functions and settings of your camera, such as setting the ISO, opening the shutter, and shooting multiple frames for stacking.

Articles on Image Processing of Astrophotos.

Image Calibration, Aligning and Stacking.

There are many different types of software that may help you astrophotography: The line is becoming blurred between DSLR and Mirrorless digital cameras such as those by Sony, Nikon and Canon, and CMOS sensors used in dedicated astronomical cameras such as those by ZWO and QHY. A wide range of features makes SharpCap suitable for many types of astro-imaging including Planetary, Lunar, Solar, Deep Sky and EAA (Electronically Assisted Astronomy). It can be used with dedicated astronomy cameras, webcams and USB frame grabbers.

SharpCap SharpCap is an easy-to-use and powerful astronomy camera capture tool.

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Images Plus ($200) - Stacking, Aligning, Processing.

Photoshop Creative Cloud ($10/month subscription) - Processing.

Deep SkyStacker ($ Free) - Stacking and Aligning.

Cartes du Ciel ($ Free) Highly recommended.

AstroPhotography Tool ($ Free / $20) Highly recommended.

BackYardEOS ($ Free / $35 / $50) Highly recommended.

Then additional contrast and color corrections are also applied to make them look their best. Usually we shoot multiple images and align and stack them to improve the signal-to-noise ratio in the images. Once you have shot your images, you will need to process them to make them look their best. Simply click on an object in your planetarium program and tell the mount to point the scope at it. Planetarium programs will allow you to control and point your Go To mount. You'll also be able to see your images at a larger size on your computer screen compared to the LCD on the back of the camera.

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You can use software metrics to help you focus as well as program in a series of long exposures and pauses between them. The price to be paid for this, however, is additional complexity, powering a laptop computer at the scope at a dark-sky remote observing location, dealing with USB connection issues, and cable routing.Д¬amera control software will allow almost complete control of the camera while you sit at the laptop computer. Dithering is changing the scope pointing a small amount between exposures to help deal with noise and hot pixels in the images. Once you get a little more advanced, using a laptop at the scope can make pointing and camera control a little bit easier and also allow more advanced techniques such autoguiding, and dithering. I didn't even have a Go To mount, I just used setting circles and star charts. I shot without a computer at the telescope for 20 years back in the days of film before digital cameras. You can focus with Live View, and then take test exposures to determine the correct exposure and framing of the object you want to shoot. When you first start out it is much easier to skip the computer. You don't really need a computer and software at the telescope to shoot astrophotos.